Cetyl Alcohol

Cetyl alcohol is one of the few ingredients on this site whose circulating number actually belongs to it — Fulton's 1989 table prints "Cetyl alcohol, 2" on a 0 to 5 scale, for cetyl alcohol — and the number is worth less than it looks: 2 sits in the band its own author called borderline, and his 1984 table scores the same ingredient 3, which that paper's own key calls positive.

Caution Low confidence Legacy score 2 on a 0-5 scale · Fulton 1989 · low reliability

Fulton 1989 scored 2, borderline under his key; Fulton 1984 scored 3, positive under its own.

Sources disagree: Two Fulton readings, five years apart, disagree. Fulton 1989 printed 2, which is borderline under the key that paper published. Fulton 1984 printed 3, which is POSITIVE under the key THAT paper published — 1 to 2 not significant, 3 or above considered positive. Each number has to be read under its own paper's key; the two keys are not interchangeable, and treating them as one is what held this entry at Clear. Neither reading is clean, so the rating moved to Caution on 2026-08-20. See retractions.json for the claim that was killed.

What it is

A sixteen-carbon fatty alcohol, and the word "alcohol" is where the worry comes from. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review describes it as a white waxy solid in flake or powder form, also called 1-hexadecanol or n-hexadecyl alcohol, insoluble in water and soluble in alcohol and oils, with a molecular weight of 242.45 and a melting point around 50 degrees Celsius. Ethanol is a two-carbon liquid that evaporates off the skin. This is a wax that has to be melted into a formula. Formulators use it to thicken an emulsion and to hold it together — it is a co-emulsifier and a body-builder, and much of what makes a cream feel like a cream rather than a separated puddle. The CIR's 1982 use survey recorded it in 2,694 formulations, of which 1,509 fell in the 1 to 5 percent band and 1,022 below 1 percent. It is closely related to, but not the same material as, cetearyl alcohol, which the same report describes as a mixture of mostly cetyl and stearyl alcohols.

Why we rate it Caution

We rate it Caution, at Low confidence. Caution is our word for a reading that sits inside the band its own author called borderline, and the direct evidence here is two Fulton readings, five years apart, that do not agree. That measurement is James Fulton's 1989 rabbit-ear survey in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. His table prints "Cetyl alcohol" and scores it 2 for comedogenicity on a 0 to 5 scale. We render the table at 400dpi and read all 220 rows by eye, because OCR drops the numeric columns, and this row says what it appears to say. That is worth stating plainly, because on most pages of this site it does not. Coconut oil has no row — Fulton tested coconut butter. Lanolin has no row — the famous 4 belongs to acetylated lanolin alcohol. Rosehip oil has no row at all. Cetyl alcohol does. The number people quote for this ingredient is a measurement of this ingredient, which on the evidence we hold makes it unusual. The method behind it — ingredient diluted to roughly 10 percent in propylene glycol, 1 ml applied to the inner ear of New Zealand albino rabbits, three rabbits per assay, five days a week for two weeks, follicular keratosis measured with a micrometer. And then Fulton's own key to his own scale, which almost nobody quotes alongside the number: "a minimal grade of 0 to 1 is not considered significant. Grade 2 to 3 is borderline. However, a grade of 4 to 5 is uniformally reproduceable and considered positive." By the standard of the man who produced it, a 2 is borderline. It is below his threshold for a positive result and above the band he called insignificant. It is not a finding of comedogenicity, and it is not a clean bill of health either. There is a second Fulton reading, and it does not match the first. His earlier survey — Fulton, Pay and Fulton 1984, now read in full — scores cetyl alcohol 3, one grade higher. That paper printed its own key, and it is not the 1989 key: "a minimal grade of 1 to 2 is not considered significant. However, a grading score of 3 or above is uniformly reproducible and considered positive." Read under the key its own paper published, the 1984 reading is a positive. This page previously called both numbers borderline by the 1989 key. That was reading one paper under the other paper's threshold, which is the error this site exists to catch, and we have taken it out. Each reading stands under its own key: a 2 that Fulton called borderline in 1989, and a 3 that Fulton called positive in 1984, from one laboratory five years apart. Fulton also has four rows beginning with the word "cetyl", and they do not agree with one another — cetyl alcohol 2, cetyl ester NF 1, cetyl palmitate 0, cetyl acetate 4. In his prose he blames the last of those for one of his highest results, writing that "the acetylated lanolin alcohols are both comedogenic and irritating, not because of the acetylated lanolin but because of the cetyl acetate additive." Four materials, one shared first word, and a spread of four points between them. If you are checking a label, the rest of the name is doing the work. Caution follows from those two readings taken under their own keys. Neither is a clean result — one sits in the middle band of the 1989 scale, the other clears the 1984 threshold for a positive — and we cannot pick between them, because the same investigator produced both. Nguyen, Dang and Maibach's 2007 rabbit study, on a 0-to-4 scale, lists cetyl alcohol among its fourteen materials and does not place it among the nine its abstract deems positive. No per-material number is printed in anything we have read of it, so that is a classification rather than a measurement, and we record it as context, not as a vote that outweighs two Fulton readings. Morris and Kwan's 1983 paper — seven lanolins, nine vegetable oils, eleven esters, five surfactants — has no cetyl alcohol row at all.

What the evidence doesn’t tell you

Two rabbit-ear readings from one laboratory are the entire direct evidence. It is the same assay we discount everywhere else on this site, and the reasons do not stop applying because a number is low. Draelos and DiNardo argued in 2006 that rabbit-ear results do not reliably transfer to human skin; the 2025 JAAD Reviews survey of the field found that no standardised comedogenicity test exists and that "non-comedogenic" is an unregulated claim. Those are the grounds on which we refuse to trust the 4s. They apply identically to this 2 and to the 3 beside it. We identified no study that counted comedones on human skin after applying cetyl alcohol. The closest thing in the record is not a comedogenicity study, and the gap matters. The CIR's 1988 final report describes a topical tolerance study of a cetyl alcohol cream base (reported at 11.5 percent, though the report does not fully specify whether that is the alcohol or the whole base) in 80 male subjects aged 21 to 52, randomised into eight groups of ten. Four groups applied it to the left forearm and four to the left lower face, including the left side of the lips, five times a day — every three hours — for ten days. One subject developed erythema, folliculitis and pustule formation, at the forearm site. So forty men wore a fairly heavy concentration of this ingredient on the face, five times a day for ten days, and the report records no adverse finding from any of them. That is genuinely reassuring and it is not a measurement of comedogenicity. The endpoint was irritation and tolerance. The report records no comedone count and no follicular biopsy, and an unreported comedone is not an absent one. The one follicular event that was recorded is also not the thing at issue — folliculitis and pustules are inflammatory lesions, and a comedone is a plug. One subject in eighty is a case, not a rate. We cite the study because it is the closest human exposure we can find, not because it answers the question. Nor does the report as a whole. It runs to hundreds of pages, concludes that these alcohols are "safe as cosmetic ingredients in the present practices of use", and reports that clinical irritation and sensitisation studies of formulations containing up to 8.4 percent cetyl alcohol "produced no evidence of irritation or sensitisation". The words comedo, acne, sebaceous and follicle do not appear anywhere in it. It was asked a different question, and safety is not noncomedogenicity. One argument we will not offer, because we made it ourselves and it was wrong. The common defence of fatty alcohols online is that the molecule is simply too large to get into a follicle. On our own cetearyl alcohol page we wrote that the ingredient sat far beyond the 200 to 300 molecular-weight band Fulton discussed as the zone of maximum follicular penetration. Cetyl alcohol's molecular weight, from the CIR's own table, is 242.45. It is inside that band, not beyond it. Whatever that band is worth — and it is an observation about one man's ingredient set, not a law — it is not an argument in this ingredient's favour, and we found no study measuring follicular penetration of cetyl alcohol in either direction. The rating does not rest on that mechanism, and it never did. Finally, the ingredient's known human liability is a different one. Cetyl alcohol and its relatives are recognised contact allergens with a small but real patch-test literature, and the CIR reviews human sensitisation data on them at length. Allergy is not comedogenicity, the two questions have different answers, and where an ingredient lands on this site says nothing about whether it is the reason a particular person cannot use most of the creams in a pharmacy.

Where you’ll see it

Typically in creams rather than gels — moisturisers, cleansing milks, conditioners, sunscreens, foundations, shaving preparations. Those are illustrative categories, not a measured prevalence; we have not audited the market. In the CIR's 1982 use data the great majority of the 2,694 reported formulations used it at 5 percent or less, and label position is not a dose. Nearby you will often meet cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate and cetyl esters; they are related, they carry different numbers, and the evidence on this page does not transfer to them.

Sources

Each source says what it actually is. Several widely-cited “sources” for comedogenic ratings are republishing the same 1989 assay, and counting them as independent agreement is how a thin evidence base gets made to look thick.

  1. Fulton JE. "Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products." J Soc Cosmet Chem 40:321-333 (1989) The most-quoted source, and the one that gives the 2. Design — ingredient at roughly 10% in propylene glycol, 1 ml applied to the inner ear of New Zealand albino rabbits, three rabbits per assay, five days a week for two weeks, follicular keratosis measured with a micrometer. Scale 0 to 5. Cetyl alcohol appears among the alcohol rows of Table I, scored 2 for comedogenicity. Our transcription records section headings for two blocks of that paper only, and this is not one of them, so we give the row rather than a heading we cannot produce. the paper also prints an irritancy column, which we do not quote here because our verbatim transcription of the table carries the comedogenicity column only. What it cannot support — Fulton calls the survey "not at all definitive but simply designed to stimulate research", warns that the rabbit ear is so sensitive that "not everything that irritates this model will also irritate human skin", and defines his own grades such that 2 is "borderline" rather than positive. It is one animal assay in one laboratory, at a concentration and under an occlusion regime no product reproduces.
  2. Fulton JE Jr, Pay SR, Fulton JE III. "Comedogenicity of current therapeutic products, cosmetics, and ingredients in the rabbit ear." J Am Acad Dermatol 10(1):96–105 (1984) Fulton's earlier survey, now read in full off the journal scan (print copy obtained 2026-07-18). Its Table I, "Miscellaneous ingredients," scores cetyl alcohol 3 — one grade above the 1989 row. Read with its OWN key, which is not the 1989 key: in 1984 Fulton wrote that "a minimal grade of 1 to 2 is not considered significant" and that "a grading score of 3 or above is uniformly reproducible and considered positive", so this reading is a positive in the paper that printed it. Cited as the second Fulton reading, and as a reminder that the same author, five years apart, scored this ingredient differently and against a different threshold.
  3. Nguyen SH, Dang TP, Maibach HI. "Comedogenicity in rabbit: some cosmetic ingredients/vehicles." Cutan Ocul Toxicol 26(4):287–292 (2007) A later rabbit-ear assay, 0-to-4 scale. Cited for what its abstract does and does not do: it lists cetyl alcohol among its fourteen test materials and does not place it in the "first nine were deemed positive" set. We have not read its table and carry no number from it, so what it carries is a classification and not a measurement — not a negative result on a scale we can set beside Fulton's.
  4. Cosmetic Ingredient Review. "Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, and Behenyl Alcohol." J Am Coll Toxicol 7(3):359-413 (1988) A final report, not a tentative or comment-stage draft — the document read for this page is the published journal version, headed "Final Report on the Safety Assessment of…" in Journal of the American College of Toxicology volume 7, number 3. Industry-funded, independently panelled toxicological safety review. The source of every chemical and market figure on this page — the 242.45 molecular weight, the roughly 50 degree melting point, the water insolubility, and the 1982 use survey (2,694 formulations; 5 above 25%, 20 at 10 to 25%, 75 at 5 to 10%, 1,509 at 1 to 5%, 1,022 at 0.1 to 1%, 63 at or below 0.1%). Also the source of the 80-subject tolerance study quoted in the limits section. Its critical limitation, and the reason it cannot be read as support for the rating — it never assesses comedogenicity. The words comedo, acne, sebaceous and follicle do not occur in it. Its endpoints are toxicity, irritation and sensitisation.
  5. Morris WE, Kwan SC. "Use of the rabbit ear model in evaluating the comedogenic potential of cosmetic ingredients." J Soc Cosmet Chem 34:215-225 (1983) The second major rabbit-ear survey, six years before Fulton and on the same 0 to 5 scale, undiluted material unless otherwise stated, three rabbits, 14 applications, microscopic grading. Cited here for what it does NOT contain — its 32 rows cover lanolins, vegetable oils, esters and surfactants, and cetyl alcohol is not among them. It is the paper that would most plausibly have corroborated or contradicted Fulton's 2, and it did neither. It matters for a second reason — it contradicts Fulton in print on other materials, which is why "one assay found 2" cannot be read as "the literature agrees".
  6. Draelos ZD, DiNardo JC. "A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept." J Am Acad Dermatol 54(3):507-512 (2006) A "Current Issues and Opinion" piece, not a same-substance rabbit-versus-human validation study. It argues that rabbit-ear results do not reliably predict comedogenicity in human skin and that testing an isolated ingredient says little about a finished formula. Cited against our own rating as much as for it — it is the reason the confidence here stays Low, whichever way the two Fulton numbers are read.
  7. "Comedogenicity in cosmeceuticals: a review of clinical relevance, regulatory gaps, and future directions." JAAD Reviews (2025) A recent peer-reviewed narrative review covering the literature from 1972 to 2025. Finds that no standardised comedogenicity test exists and that the "non-comedogenic" claim is unregulated. A synthesis, not new data, and not independent of Fulton in the sense of testing anything — but independent of the consumer lists that republish him.
  8. Acne.org, "What Is Comedogenicity, and What Ingredients Are Comedogenic?" (updated 24 March 2025) A commercial acne-products site that also publishes an ingredient list, cited here to characterise the secondary literature accurately rather than lazily. It is not a bare republication of Fulton — it states a rule (two or more rabbit assays, or one human-method test, to reach its "avoid" list) and cites twelve primary papers. It is still a list compiled from other people's assays, with no measurement of its own, and no page of it tells you which study produced which number.

Others in the same family

Fatty alcohols behave similarly enough that the evidence for one is often wrongly read across to the others. These are its structural relatives, not a guess. What the evidence says about fatty alcohols as a family ›

Last reviewed 2026-08-20 · How we decide

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